The Working Cats of Istanbul


IMG_3980My friend Nichole once sent me  a book called Cats of Greece. This has inspired today’s blog, on a theme dear to my heart–and also to my friend Heather’s. (Heather is the GG who wrote the guest blog “Dirty Little Secrets of the Little Bookstore” a few days ago, featuring cats.)

There are many cats in Istanbul, and because of Turkey’s excellent training programs, they all have gainful employment.  Zeynep weaves carpets just down from the High Street by Topkapi Palace. Below, Turker and his sister Ceren run a sidewalk cafe near the Galata Tower.IMG_3982

At the palace itself, there are several cats working shifts at the guardhouse set up for their convenience in bad weather. I didn’t get all their names, but one night I took some leftover food up, and when the bag rustled as I dumped it, cats came from everywhere.

IMG_3953  Amane sings with a jazz band in the newer part of Istanbul, up near the High Street from Galata, but she is also putting herself through school by selling instruments in a music shop. She teaches beginning drums for children.IMG_3920

Ahmet was on guard duty at the Blue Mosque when we walked up one night, but the mosque was closed except for those who wanted to pray, and Ahmet was clearly embarrassed that we were still there as tourists. We thanked him and left quickly.IMG_3975

Ayse paints ceramics outside the Grand Bazaar; she was on break when we met her. IMG_3875

Of course we were delighted to meet Suliman and his wife Fatma, who keep a bookstore in the market district. They introduced us to their colleague next door, Mahmood, who specialized in antique calligraphy.

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IMG_3790This wee cat, whose name we didn’t catch, was begging at a fishing village on the Bosphorous tourism boat stop. She leaped into this couple’s lap and made nice, then when fish from his sandwich was not forthcoming, clawed him until he dropped it. Clever little bugger.

IMG_3912Sultan is teaching his human the carpet trade in the Sultan’s stables bazaar, just off the Blue Mosque. Sultan was very thirsty when we came by, having just finished his lunch of salami, and his human staff were appreciative when I poured water from my bottle into his saucer.

IMG_3703Theodora poses for pictures with little children in Gulhane Park, for the very reasonable fee of one Turkish Lira per photo.

 And finally, Topkapi (that’s her stage name; her real name is Tiffany) moved here from France and models jewelry for the Ti Amo jewelry store, across the street from the Sirkaci Konak Hotel in the Old City. Topkapi only works nights.IMG_3871

The Great Liver Explosion of 2012

Regular readers will remember Shelley (mother of Holly, the girl who asked Santa to autograph her copy of “Night Before Christmas”). Here’s her guest blog on what life-and-death means when it’s real.

As many of Wendy’s readers know, I suffered a major health scare a few months ago. After facing death, Wendy blogged about my recovery and now you’re getting the rest of the story.  

It’s funny how the universe is always conspiring to bring the right people and circumstances into our lives. The GGGs all came to me serendipitously. One I met through our local paper, one through our passion for school consolidation, one works with my brother, and another’s husband coached baseball with mine. Since becoming part of this “secret society,” I always have someone that lets me know when to hunker down. One  member also needs to quit her medical practice and be my private physician. And then there’s Wendy and the bookstore……She’s the glue that keeps us together. Always planning a new adventure or just giving us a place to chat about life, politics, or small town drama. The friendship, support, and encouragement from this group have given me great joy and hope during the worst time of my life.

Before the great liver explosion of 2012, I had a storybook life-a loving husband, beautiful, healthy children, a successful business, and more sparkle than a Porter Wagner suit. Everything always seemed to work out in my favor. I never questioned why or how, I just rambled through life without a care. I became accustomed to a relatively worry free existence.

Then it happened. I decided to have liver surgery to correct a genetic condition. I did my homework and found the best liver surgeon in America at the Mayo Clinic.

Ahead of surgery, I saw everyone I wanted to see and said everything I wanted to say, except for one certain GGG. I had lingering worries about what would happen if things went sour. There were so many things I needed to tell her, but I never got the chance. I tried to pass it off as unnecessary concern, but thoughts of her haunted me.

As usual, everything was going smoothly. Pre-op appointment- GREAT. Date night before hospital check in-GREAT. Surgery-GREAT. Discharge from recovery-GREAT.  Suddenly, out of nowhere, everything wasn’t great. As a matter of fact, things were bad. VERY, VERY BAD.

My ammonia level skyrocketed. This is an indicator of liver failure and it also makes one delirious, confused, and not of sound mind. Next, I developed a blood clot in my liver followed by the explosion of a spontaneously formed bleeding ulcer. Back to surgery I went.

Since I can’t remember any of this, I have to say my surgeon has the hands of God. He repaired everything inside of me and left me with an almost unnoticeable scar.

Eleven days after this dramatic turn of events, I began to wake up and take in what had transpired. I had been on every form of life support available, received enough blood to satisfy a village of vampires, and more IV’s than any human should have to ever receive.

My tiny body was desperately trying to heal, but I couldn’t walk and speaking was not going so well either. For a moment, I imagined my children with no mother, my husband with no life & business partner, my mother losing her firstborn so soon after losing my dad. Then I did the only thing I knew how to do. I put on my big girl panties and I got over it.

After a few days, I could stand. After standing, I was able to walk a few steps. Within a week, I could walk down my hallway with a walker. My speech slowly came back. I started to believe I would taste food again. I dreamed of eating a Popsicle and oatmeal.

It took several long, scary months to regain my strength and some semblance of normalcy. When I finally felt like things were going to be okay, I realized the biggest healing hadn’t been my liver or my mind; it was my heart. This ordeal taught me to love bigger and deeper and to actually mean it.

During my recovery, my GGs gave me love, brought me food, lit candles for my healing, prayed, begged, pleaded, and did everything possible to make sure I could return to the ranks. One in particular sacrificed her scare and precious free time to keep me company and bring me homemade food and even a rescue puppy to snuggle.

As for my certain GGG, I will be in her wedding one year to the day of my life saving surgery. Ironic? No. It’s exactly as it should be. That day will be a sweet reminder of the blessing of friendship and second chances to say what needs to be said

Paul Simon has some very appropriate lyrics for my new lease on life.

“I’ve been working on my rewrite, that’s right. I’m gonna change the ending, gonna throw away the title, and toss it in the trash.”

So that’s what I’m doing. I’m working on my rewrite. I guarantee my storybook will end with, “She lived happily ever after.”