Two lovely women and their bookstores

We spent Christmas Eve Day in Memphis tracking bookstores. Of the eight listed, five still stood: three used, two new, one of these independent. We passed the grave of the abandoned Bookstar, which had been an offshoot of either B&N or Borders, not sure which.

Two lovely women in two wonderful shops were our total before heavy and no-longer-benevolent traffic sent these little country mice scurrying back to the hotel. First thing in the morning we made it to Burke’s Books, a shop of some twenty years in various locations across Memphis–including one the Internet directed to, an address its owner Cheryl said later was five years old. Gotta love the Net.

Cheryl and her husband owned the store, which was quiet when we arrived at 10, leaving her happy to chat. She also had chocolate chip cookies from the die-hard farmers market still running next door, so we got on well right from the start.

Interesting to us, Cheryl’s funky-decor, funky-location store is smaller than ours in square footage and stock, but doing considerably more business. (Well, it IS Memphis.) Hers is considered the matriarch of bookstores in town. All the people and sites we asked about books mentioned Burke’s.

She sells via several online sites as well, and as she said, “We’re not getting rich, but we’re not getting killed by the Kindle, either.” I told her the theory I’d written in The Little Bookstore, that e-readers were taking down the strong while letting the small, flexible, independent shops slip through the net. She pondered a moment, then laughed. “I think that’s exactly right. We’ll still be here.” She gave me a chin nod and tossed her jaw-length brown hair in defiance, the proud flash in her eyes as they met mine suggesting sisterhood.

Yep.

We bought a book in one of the shops called The Case for Books, tracing new media that was supposed to replace the thing before it (Internet would kill TV, TV would kill radio, radio would kill singing get-togethers) and showing how it hadn’t, that such activities had altered yet not disappeared. There doesn’t have to be an either/or on e-books and live books. Paper pulp or electronic pulse, it’s still good stuff.

Feeling empowered, we left Cheryl’s shop as it began to heat up with about a dozen customers (in a relatively small space) including two dogs who were obviously shop regulars. (They headed straight for the how-to manuals; one was a Labrador, of course). She gave us her card and asked us to stay in touch, which we look forward to doing.

On to Booksellers at Laurelwood we drove, a place that had no less than three addresses listed on the Internet. Since one was very close, we tried there first, and hit the jackpot.

Of course, the place was packed. A packed bookstore. Selling new books. Jack said, as we stood, taking in the site of some hundred people buying up actual physical volumes, “On the one hand, this is bad because you won’t get to talk to anyone about doing a signing when your book comes out. On the other hand, just look at this. It’s still possible.”

I think there was a tear in his voice.

We browsed beautifully displayed shelves of Crane notepaper, expensive pens and glow-in-the-dark dinosaurs. (We had hit the children’s section.) There we met the blond firecracker Nicole, children’s manager and very sweet person. She finished helping a grandmother buying five copies of The Illustrated Mother Goose. Gran bustled off with an air of relief, and Nicole, turning, took in my diffident, “are-you-too-busy-to-talk” posture and said, “Now, what can I help you with?”

Fish or cut bait; the place was hooching. Remembering poor Richard back at Square Books, I simply launched: “Iwroteabookandit’scomingoutinOctoberit’sfromStMartin’sPressandit’saboutbookstoresandit’sfunnynothowtoandIwantedtotalktosomeonehereabout doingasigningwhenitcomesoutbutyallaresobusycouldIjusttakeaphonenumberandnameofthepersonIshouldcallandI’msorrytobeherethedaybefore Christmasbutwe’rehavingsuchfunvisitingalltheindependentbookstoreswecanstillfindintheSoutheastsowehadtostoptoday.”

She blinked, then laughed and put her hand on my shoulder. “NO problem. Wait right here.” She disappeared into the milieu, and came back a couple of minutes later with a card. “The events manager isn’t here but she and I and the general manager share an office, so we talk every day. Just email me when you’re getting set up. So it’s about bookstores?”

I gave her the briefest of spiels, but she asked more questions. I said something to the effect of we didn’t want to bother her on such a busy day, and she waved her hand in a “Pshaw, neighbor” kind of way.

“You should have seen this place yesterday,” she said, a tiny tremor shaking her slender frame (she was 5’3″, just not round). “I figure since I’m still standing, I deserve ten minutes to talk about books.”

We both laughed, standing as we were in a bookstore piled high with those items, but we understood each other very well. So I told her about all the fun we’d had setting up our store and the places we’d been visiting over the past five days. A faraway look came into her eye.

“The manager and I have actually been talking about doing a quick tour of independent new sellers around here,” she said.

“Well, email me and I’ll tell you which ones are still standing,” I blurted. She gave me an enigmatic look, and only then did I remember that the store I was in had narrowly escaped death that past summer.

Booksellers at Laurelwood was Davis-Kidd, part of the Joseph Beth family. Of course we all know JB went into bankruptcy, but as Nicole explained further, everyone thought the place would be reorganized and keep going. Through a series of shenanigans involving former employees, the Memphis store got left out of  a package deal bought by the former COO from under the owner, and it became its own store, spurning later offers to rejoin the “family.”

“Lots of people think we’re gone,” Nicole added. “We get calls almost every day from people who say, ‘Oh, you’re still open!’ Where are you?”

The bookstore’s population had by this time grown from one customer per ten feet to one per two, so we shook hands and said goodbye. Jack and I stood in line with a couple of volumes he’d found (on the bargain table) and waited about fifteen minutes to reach the man at the register–who kept ringing his bell for help, more in hope than expectation as no one came. The poor guy was sweating by the time we got a turn at the counter, his arms a blur of motion.

Jack smiled. “We run a used bookstore,” he said. “We dream about having this many customers.”

The man’s tired eyes held a smile as he said, “I’ll come work for you, then.” Then he surprised us. As he rang up the books he said, “What’s the name of your store in Virginia?” (He had seen Jack’s ID for his debit card.)

“Tales of the Lonesome Pine, and we call it The Little Bookstore of Big Stone Gap,” Jack said.

“It’s small?” he asked, and Jack gave him the five-second spiel on my book. The man held out our bag and made eye contact with me, giving one of those between-booksellers chin nods. “Good for you,” he said. “And good luck with your bookstore.”

As we left Booksellers at Laurelwood, I mentioned my surprise that such a busy person would take the time to actually listen to a customer’s casual remarks and ask questions.

Jack nodded. “That doesn’t often happen at big stores, and that was a big store.” (Huge, in fact. Cavernous, but stuffed to coziness with books.) “But it was a big bookstore, owned by a person, not a corporation, so the employees get to be themselves instead of having the debit machine ask ‘was your server friendly today?’. It all goes back to that McDonaldization of Society book we were talking about. People who get to be themselves, think for themselves, at work are happier. And people who work in bookstores know books. So he was interested, and even with that string of traffic, he was himself.”

Score one for independent bookstores. And I look forward to emailing Nicole a list of places she can visit in the New Year.

Dead downtowns are everywhere

Oxford Ersatz to Memphis Christmas

Jack in Oxford

The “Booking Down the Road” Christmas expedition continued as we ambled from Pontotoc to Oxford, MS. The town square in this university-fed economy radiates money and charm–and supports three book-selling locations amidst a fluff of boutiques and coffeeshops.

Square Books, with its two offshoot stores Off Square and Square Jr., are all run by Richard Howorth a tall, thin, kindly-countenanced man. (Another pattern emerges: Lady bookshop owners are 5’3″ and well-rounded; the gentlemen are wispy guys who probably didn’t play football in college. Hmmm….)

Square Books is so beautiful, it’s awe-inspiring: sweet little corners with armchairs tucked into them, a coffee bar upstairs, recessed shelves along stair landings, books signed by the great and good topping every display. Jack and I were  impressed, bordering on cowed. This was a bookstore’s bookstore, something to aspire to.

Since we were in his shop at 10 a.m. on the last full shopping day before Christmas, we could see that it was not the best time for Richard, who had his arms full of calendars and his attention pummeled by questions from staff and customers every couple of minutes. He was nevertheless amiable and gave us his card, and I suspect sitting down with him over a cup of coffee post-season would be very enlightening; we may come back when the Natchez Trace Parkway is in bloom and meander on down to his place again. He’s kept one of the few shops selling new books going–since 1979! When he and his wife opened the store, they had worked a couple of years for other retail bookstores, so knew what they were doing.

Yet another pattern emerges; for second-hand shop owners, desire motivates, then desperation teaches; retailers either practice first, or… well, there aren’t so many nowadays, are there? Another, sadder, pattern emerging…..

We wandered into a coffeeshop before leaving Oxford, a chain masquerading as an independent, its deep and comfy leather couches carefully coordinated to match its wooden tables and chairs. So earnestly ersatz was the place, I had the feeling the lad at the window, wearing an Ol Miss sweatshirt and typing away at his laptop, had conjured us all as characters in his novel. When anyone left the shop–the elderly men with the Dickensian Christmas scarves ’round their necks; the cute twentysomething couple, she wearing the white puffy ski jacket and alpine hat, he sporting school sweats and a pompom beanie; the woman with twin babies in the pram, one in pink, one in blue–we would all flatten back onto the pages the student generated.

Wendy and William Faulkner talk books

I told Jack to enjoy his coffee, because like Jostein Gaarder’s “Sophie,” we would have to escape our destiny as literary pawns in the student’s brain. Jack suggested we might need to take a break from driving, as I had clearly become overtired, but I still think Oxford, MS doesn’t really exist; it’s a perfect projection from someone’s mind of how a town should work with itself to organize something lovely around the old courthouse square.

To clear all that sweetness and light away, we headed up Highway 51, stopping in small towns along the way in a vain search for bookstores–or even life. You know that “town centers are dying” thing? No, they’re mostly dead. Railway lines with beautiful houses on one side and a row of tiny, adorable store fronts on the other, every last one of them empty, only one even trying with a desultory “for rent” sign hanging from the door: that was Como, MS.

In Sardis, the Internet promised “The American Book Exchange.” This turned out to be a warehouse for an online seller, guarded by two trucks, a hound dog lying on its closed front porch. The dog raised its head and eyed us in a “don’t make me get up” kind of way as we turned in the dirt parking lot. No humans appeared.

So it went, up the road to Memphis, the Mecca of EIGHT(!!!) bookstores–five used and one independent new. Book Traders turned out to be the only one we managed on our way to find Jack an Indian curry; we chatted with the college student working the shop, as the owner was away for the holidays. The lad had worked there several years, and stayed on after graduation because “it looked like the best job going.” A paperback store very like others in the strip malls of Franklin and Tupelo, it was casually organized and catered to the Patterson, romance and western crowd. The newly-minted grad and I talked book gossip–had Larry McMurtry really reneged on his promise to donate the castoffs of his bookstore to his local library–instead of store policy, and as we left Jack commented that, while all our conversations these past few days had been about books, they’d been about the selling of them. Not our favorites, or new authors we were expecting good things from, but the minutia of how we sold them. People do think a bookstore is all about lovely literary conversations, but fairly often it’s about sorting, lifting, and cleaning the dead spiders from boxes of someone else’s reading detritus. And so it goes.

Interestingly enough, this young’un was the only person thus far to ask, “What is the title of your book?” (Of course we’d been mentioning that little news everywhere we go. Jack even told a waiter.) I suppose it’s only natural that people who deal in books all day every day would not want to get into conversation with someone they’ve never met, who announces she’s got a book coming out. It could be self-published–the literary world still isn’t sure what it thinks about that, although it really does seem to be the wave of the future. The person could be delusional; mentioning St Martin’s Press certainly helps there, since they’re such a respected house. For whatever reason, he was the first book staff to ask, and he even made a note on a scrap of paper when I told him  (WAY too proudly) The Little Bookstore of Big Stone Gap.

After one of the best Indian meals ever at Bombay House (thoroughly recommended) we tucked ourselves into the swank hotel gotten through a Christmas half-price deal online. We feel a bit guilty about parking here until Dec. 26, as some staff are going to have to feed and care for the  six guests in this 300-room hotel, but as one attendant told me, “We get double pay, so it’s not that bad.” This is probably where I should pontificate on commercialization, but never mind.

Creativity comes in many forms...