Turning Toward Home, with a Slight Twist

The Booty (with three days to go)

It’s a bad sign when you can’t remember where you spent the night, something most of us left behind in our carefree college days. But I don’t remember where Jack and I parked last night, just that the motel was clean and had an indoor pool. And that we were near storytelling friends Dan Keding and Tandy Lacy, but missed getting together – bummer!

It might be time to start for home. We are now in Mt Carmel, Illinois, and there’s a funny story to go with that in a minute. But first, let me tell you about The Book Stores of St Louis.

Larry Bowen had told us that the four independent bookshops in the big city had hooked themselves together into the Independent Booksellers Alliance, so we looked forward to hearing about this. Our first stop was Puddnhead Books, in the charming village of Webster Groves. (The shop didn’t open until ten and wherever we stayed the night before, I had dragged Jack out of it at 9, so the twenty minutes we ambled the streets peering in shop windows were silent and contrite on my part, triumphantly forgiving on Jack’s.)

Puddnhead is spacious, painted with bright primary colors, and runs heavily to children’s books. It was also the first place we’d seen with a resident animal, but, sadly, it was the dog’s day off. He lives with the adult buyer and event coordinator, and they weren’t in that day; the children’s manager was working the floor.

Jack and I ambled, discovering a shelf at the back with “gently used” half-price books the owners had read and brought in. We scored a couple there and Jack found yet another Bob Dylan book he didn’t own–which, given the morning’s timing debacle, seemed a small price to pay. The bathroom in Puddnhead cemented my belief that this was a charming place: authors who had signed books there left latrinalia on its walls. (That’s graffiti to you and me, but some of my friends are folklorists.)

The woman working the shop spent considerable time talking with us, but it turns out we were the second shop owners in two days to come by. Another couple, who owned a children’s bookshop in Minnesota, had passed through on their way to visit family, and had called in to see “another independent bookstore.”

We talked about the Amazon factor, and she told me something interesting: when Amazon put out its now-infamous call that anyone who produced a print add for local retailers selling anything cheaper than The Big A would get $5 below that price, customers did indeed react. They brought in lists of books they wanted and said, “We were going to buy these on Amazon but after what they tried to do to local shops with that campaign, we hate them.”

Backlash is America’s greatest asset, and much of our history is actually built on it, for good or ill. Up the localvores.

The lady at Puddnhead also spent considerable time advising a family on a book purchase for a young child, again something that doesn’t happen in the box stores. And she drew us a map to the other independent new sellers, plus a couple of used ones. We waved a cheerful goodbye and set our GPS to the second store.

Remember how I said when you turn a bookseller’s heart inside out, what displays is his or her bookstore? Well, let’s just admit that not everyone would feel a natural affinity to everyone else, no matter how hard we try. It’s not that we think the next store we visited is wrong, or bad, or even creepy, it’s just….

If Edgar Allen Poe had married Charlaine Harris, this is the bookstore they would have opened.

Steampunk meets zombie meets gentleman bookseller. Great shelves, reminiscent of that pretty Reader’s Corner run by Larry back in Rolla – but painted black and towering so high our friend Mike Samerdyke (6’3″) would have been hardpressed to reach the top. No ladders. No signs to tell you how to get the books down. Lots of magic books, though, so maybe the owner could levitate. Black floors, black walls, orange spider script designating the shelves. And to top off the creepy factor, Rush Limbaugh’s talk show was blaring over the speakers. In fact, our friend and fellow writer Mike Samerdyke and his daughter Olivia would have loved this shop, as would our friend and fellow writer Neva Bryan; both Neva and Mike adore Dark stuff, but Jack and I are more into little fuzzy animals with big brown eyes drawn by Garth Williams or Jack Kent.

Thanks, Mr. Steam Zombie, your bookstore is darkly lovely and we’re outta here. Bless you, be well, some forms of depression are treatable with medication, and we have some friends we’ll be sending your way.

We had intended to leave the new bookstores behind and visit a second-hand one, but the second Alliance member had shaken us, so we decided to see a third. Hello, “Left Bank Books,” where our spirits soared. They had a resident cat.

Spike ambling back into the office to resume working on his novel. He loved being petted, but flatly refused to pose for a photo. Or maybe we'd kept him from his daily word quota.

“Spike” was sitting in an office at a laptop, presumably working on his novel, when we arrived, and Danielle, the events coordinator, kindly left her desk (where she was clearly pretty busy) and spent fifteen minutes telling us about Spike and Left Bank, and hearing about our cats and shop. Left Bank has been in business 42 years, and has two locations. It does more than 200 events per year, and it has used books downstairs, new upstairs.

I mentioned Amazon and she gave a disdainful sniff. “We’re not worried.”

They didn’t have reason to be; even in the Dead Days between Christmas and New Year, the place thrummed with people (many of whom were happy to greet Spike when he sauntered up the stairs after leaving us. We heard cries of “Hey, Spike!” from several directions.)

“Left Bank” had the comfortable feeling of an overstuffed armchair, books everywhere, people everywhere, cat ambling through. A localvore’s dream, in fact.

Three distinct bookshops, three distinct personalities: that’s a good way for large city sellers to cooperate with each other; we were impressed.

From there we beat it across Illinois toward Vincennes–and, unknowing, the best customer service story of the day. We’d booked a hotel online the night before from… wherever it was we were. By the time we left St. Louis, we really didn’t have a chance to stop anywhere else with a bookstore; we’d marked the town of Olney as having one, but we got there after 5. So we just drove into the dark, me getting a bit tired and cramped, looking forward to the Super 8 in Vincennes.

Which didn’t have any record of our reservation.

We hauled out the laptop and checked the phone number. The hotel clerk looked nervous. “That’s an Illinois area code.”

Illinois, as in, the place we just drove across? The flat place of crazy drivers passing each other, that had only one bookstore in a three-hour stretch?

We rang the number; the hotel was in Mt Carmel, Illinois, about fifteen minutes back the way, and South another twenty. It wasn’t so far off our track, but it also wasn’t where we were standing. I explained and asked the woman at the Mt Carmel Super 8 to cancel our reservation.

The disembodied voice sounded politely sympathetic. “We can’t cancel after 4.”

“The website told me you were in Vincennes! We’re not going South.”

“I am very sorry.”

Every book I’d read about employees not getting to make their own decisions, about the disincentive to provide customer service via disincentive to think for oneself at all, came flooding forward. She couldn’t make this decision; it was no skin off her nose. Red hot rage flooded me.

“Fine,” I said. “Thank you and goodbye.” I didn’t hang up on her, but I didn’t wait for her to say anything else, either.

The poor child working the Vincennes Super 8 looked something between frightened and sympathetic. She made us a Mapquest printout to the other hotel, and we drove back the way we’d come, me rehearsing a careful yet thorough speech about customer service, decision making and the ability of consumers to reciprocate via feedback sites and blogs and other free speech venues.

“We are the Beck reservation,” I said to the woman behind the counter, a petite redhead whose eyes barely saw over the top. Those eyes narrowed.

“I thought you weren’t coming.”

“We had no choice.” I narrowed my eyes back at her. “We can’t afford to throw away a night’s fee if you wouldn’t cancel us.”

“I did cancel you,” she said. “I called my manager, and he agreed that if this wasn’t where you’d intended, you shouldn’t have to stay. Do you still want to stay here? We have room, but you’d said this wasn’t where you wanted to be.”

That ‘wah-wah-wah-wah’ noise the sitcom of life sometimes produces when God wants to teach us a little humility began to play in my head.

“Why didn’t you do that while I was on the phone?” I asked.

She shrugged. “I had to call him back. And…” her eyes narrowed even more. “You didn’t give me a chance to say anything about your calling me back. I didn’t have your number to call.”

Jack and I looked at one another, me teetering between rage and laughter. Jack’s mustache twitched.

“Where are you headed, anyway?” Nikki (as her badge announced) asked.

We burst into laughter. “Anywhere we want,” Jack said. “We run a bookstore, and we’re visiting independent bookstores and secondhand ones. My wife’s just written a book, so we’re seeing how other people run theirs plus meeting places where she might do publicity later.”

Nikki looked at me. “What’s the book about?”

I couldn’t help it. “Customer service.”

Nikki laughed. I was starting to like her. She launched into a very careful play by play of the many fine features of this particular Super 8, including the free breakfast and where the ironing board was located in the room closet. Apparently the hotel had just been vacated by a very large church group that came every year right after Christmas, and used up most of the staff’s internal reserves of diplomacy, so our call had been rather the icing on her “The Customer is always right” cake. Or perhaps the butcher knife slicing through it.

Either way, all’s well that ends in a belly laugh, and next time I want someone in a customer service position to help me, I may believe a little more in their self-efficacy and general goodwill.

Look closely at the name in this star (from the streets of St Louis)

Song sweet, Lady lovely, Bookstore beautiful

An Ozark native gets friendly with Wendy in his shop

Redemption comes in many forms. Our Ozarkian odyssey ended with Julie Henigan, a folklorist in Springfield who appeared at our hotel with her gorgeous 1936 guitar. (We’d met her at lunch.) She regaled us with ballads and stories until just after 9, when my head nodding could no longer be disguised as me keeping time to the music. I think I’d started snoring, which was a pity because her music was lovely!

She and Jack went downstairs to close the hotel’s entryway lounge–the clerk next morning said it was her best night of work in a long time–while I plotted our route across Missouri and fell asleep with the atlas on my face.

Awaking refreshed but with a staple mark between the eyes, I bundled Jack into an early-but-not-marriage-endangering departure and our wheels rolled by 8:30. My circuitous route took us up another of those dotted scenic highways (Dear mapmakers: I’m sorry, but you have broken my trust for the last time) and then along a tiny grey line eastward to Lebanon.

For some reason the hotel breakfast had not stuck, and when we turned right at the tiny dot called Buffalo, I was hungry enough to concede to a fast food breakfast, despite our resolve to only eat in local establishments. At that moment there hoved into view a small, local cafe.

I pulled in so fast Jack almost swallowed his microphone. (He’s regaling me with stories of his musical exploits with Heritage back in the 1980s, and we’re taping them for a possible publication project later.) He  started to say something, but saw “bacon and eggs” on the sign, and switched the mini-disc recorder off.

Truth be told, ’twas fairly mediocre breakfast, not quite as homemade as one might have expected. Not all little restaurants in small towns are magic, but it filled the need. We asked Brandy, our server, if there happened to be any bookstores in town, and she pointed the way we’d come.

“One block over.”

We’d driven right past a bookstore and not seen it? I thought our eyes had attuned to 10-point type by now, but we backtracked–and realized why we hadn’t noticed. A plywood-and-paneling shack sat next to a desultory thrift store.

“Aimee’s Books” looked….cheap and cheerful from the outside, and we walked into your basic dormer on a concrete slab. One good prairie wind, and the whole house of books would collapse. 1950s gospel played on a radio as two locals, George and Debbie, chatted about what had been in the paper that week. I took a quick look around, found a cheap book that would do, and planned to beat a quick retreat.

Debbie at Aimee's Books in Buffalo, Missouri

Debbie asked where we were from. Jack told her, adding that we owned a bookstore. Her face lit up.

“I’m friends with about 300 bookstores on facebook,” she said, and launched into her own story. Illness, divorce, grown children who’d have to leave town to find jobs, and voila, a bookstore was born. When the daughter she’d set it up for found work at the local hotel, mom stepped in to keep it going, since by then the locals were regularly coming by with trades, and happy to have her there. And the store was named for her newest acquisition, somebody else’s three-year-old she was raising to give her some stability. Aimee’s picture had pride of place in a newspaper clipping describing the store’s opening. I began to understand Debbie’s philosophy on life. Warm heart, sweet spirit, messy bookstore. Priorities are important.

Debbie, oblivious to my inner musings, said, “Take George, the guy who was in here when you came in. His wife gives her mom lunch at the nursing home every day, and he comes in here and talks to me while she does that. He comes every day.” I could see why. Debbie embodied “earth mom meets home nurse” practicality and kindness.

She’d already heard about my book, and suddenly she broke off the thread of the conversation to say, “I always wanted to write about the people who come in here. They’re a real bunch of characters. But I don’t write. Not at all. Well, I’ve done a couple of things for local organizations, and on Facebook and stuff. But I never got into the habit of writing.”

“You should!” I just about shouted. “I wrote most of my book while minding our store, between customers.” I pointed to her desk, barricaded behind the only counter in the place. “Just prop your laptop up there and write when no one’s in. You’ll be amazed how fast you amass words.”

She nodded thoughtfully, and I hope her local paper will benefit from my prodding in the future. Maybe she’ll start a blog…..

Another regular customer cruised the store as we talked, and it became obvious that she wanted to talk to Debbie herself, so after some 30 minutes of comparing notes –how hard it was to get away, how lovely to have regular customers who would step in and keep the place running, how $28 a day take-home was a good day for her–we hugged goodbye.

You can’t judge a bookstore by its cover. Debbie was absolutely lovely, and her store fit that community like a hand in its glove, reaching out to everyone who crossed her path.

We drove a lovely small farm road (without any scenic dots, but one of the nicest we’d been on) down to Lebanon, where we entered the first of several bookstores across our route named “[town name] Books and Toys.” A new bookstore with one bay of used books, in a strip mall replete with bright fluorescent lighting, the place seemed almost schizophrenic in its personality, that center aisle of battered paperbacks competing with crisp and colorful new books in side displays. The young woman working the counter gave us a bag printed with its eight or so sister locations; the shops were the creation of three brothers who distributed magazines across the state, and had started their own bookstores. I liked the mystical angle of the three brothers, picturing the youngest as the fairy tale Jack, always doing the wrong thing at the right time to win out in the end. These boys must have been doing something right, as their family-owned chain dominated Missouri.

Hopping onto the highway, we drove to Rolla, Jack picking up his Heritage stories along the way. In Rolla, we found to our surprise a vibrant downtown section, complete with renovated sidewalks, and the most beautiful bookstore we’d seen to date. Large windows in beautiful brick-and-wood settings, an old-fashioned hand-lettered sign announcing “Reader’s Corner.”

The outside should have prepared us, but Debbie’s place hadn’t matched its cover, so we walked in expecting anything, and found the most beautiful bookstore we’d seen yet.

Dark wood shelves with decorative corner work, books lined neatly along them, corner bins and turn racks neatly arranged, and unusual statuary, old typewriters and suitcases atop the lot, stretching to the high ceiling. At the back, two castle turrets stood straight and true above the children’s section, teddy bears storming their towers as a rag doll with braids looked down, smiling vacantly.

I couldn’t speak. Jack took one look and headed straight for the guy behind the counter.

It was about an hour and  half later that we tore ourselves away from Larry Bowen, who probably had gotten embarrassed by our repeated assertions that he ran the prettiest used bookstore we’d ever seen. Brittany, his shop assistant, photographed us together, and we vowed to stay in touch. (His dad was a sign painter, as was Jack’s; he played guitar; etc.)

Jack with Larry, owner of Reader's Corner

Larry told us several funny (and all too familiar) stories about his adventures as a shop owner, and this blog will feature some of those in the coming weeks. (Yes, in response to queries, I will keep blogging once we return to our regularly scheduled lives, because there’s so much to say from all the lovely shopkeepers we met, but it’s going down to once a week.)

One of the things we talked with Larry about was the ever-present local/Amazon effect. Push me, pull me, shop local, get it cheaper. Larry had instituted a policy that anything Amazon sold cheaper than his shop, he would match at $2 higher. This took into account his expenses at running it, and the low budgets of a downturned economy’s customers. It seemed a good compromise.

Not so fast. A customer who’d come in a few weeks earlier to get a donation for her church went away with $50 in gift certificates. She reappeared and showed him a book on Amazon for $13.57. “Can you beat that price? I want to shop local,” she said, smiling winningly.

Larry sighed, swallowed, and pushed up his metaphorical shirt sleeves. “I can do $15.57.”

Her face fell. “But you can’t beat it? I need 10. The church board wants these for our next Bible study.”

Larry smiled. “$15.57.”

She frowned. “I don’t think our board would authorize that extra expense. It would be $20 more than Amazon, all told. No, I’m sorry, I just don’t think that will do.”

“What about the $50 donation I gave you last month?”

She looked suddenly sheepish. “Well… I mean, we do want to shop local. It’s just we need to be good money stewards.”

Larry smiled again. “So do I. I need to keep my business standing in the community I serve.”

Larry 10 x $15.57, Amazon 0.

Reader's Corner in Rolla, Missouri: world's prettiest used bookshop

Isn't it pretty?