Si Me Ren: The Colors of Valparaiso

In a city where graffiti is illegal, it is also an art form? Yeah, welcome to Chile.

Specifically, to Valparaiso, where the walls are covered with murals and gang tags. It is illegal to write on walls in the city, but if a building owner wants his wall decorated, up and coming artists vie for the exposure. Some are instantly recognizable for their signature art elements (hummingbirds, dolls, patchworks, etc.). Others are trying to break into the bohemian art scene that thrives here, so they offer to paint for the cost of materials.

Property owners want their walls done in order to avoid gang graffiti, because gangs respect the artists. So, get your walls colorful, before somebody else does. Here are some of the great pieces we saw today on our walking tour, guided by the lovely Ignatio (red striped shirt):

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Some murals are placed so that you can only see them from certain hilltops or buildings. The one above is the most famous of the Hidden Murals.Chile Valparaiso 021

Our guide Ignatio explaining the left-to-right mural, which displays Northern Andean culture on the left, and the Mapichu Southern culture on the right.Chile Valparaiso 022 Chile Valparaiso 023 Chile Valparaiso 032

There were cats in a lot of the murals and graffiti.Chile Valparaiso 038 Chile Valparaiso 039

But I did find an owl for Kelley.Chile Valparaiso 048

Graffiti is actually illegal in Chile, so the people who own buildings have to invite mural artists to paint on them. They do this to avoid gang graffiti like that shown in the signatures here. Those are “tags” or attacks. Gangs tend to respect the art installments, and building owners don’t want their place covered in stuff like that, so they let artist cover them instead. Up-and-coming muralists work for the price of their paint, until they get known in this Bohemian Paradise.Chile Valparaiso 049 Chile Valparaiso 050 Chile Valparaiso 055

And once an artists gets known, he, or she, or they, get invited to do a great big place like this for a lot of money. (This one depicts winter into spring.)Chile Valparaiso 057 Chile Valparaiso 060 Chile Valparaiso 061 Chile Valparaiso 066

^Well, that clears that up. (It says, “You are here.”)Chile Valparaiso 067 Chile Valparaiso 069

Fisherman are always painted with stigmata or cuts, to show the troubles in the industry. It’s a signature of the local art form.Chile Valparaiso 070 Chile Valparaiso 071

The last one isn’t graffiti only, but also the wooden horse in the yard where we ate pizzas our first night here. The graffiti artist who did this place also did the horse. Please note toilet in lower right of photo. I feel trendy. :] (For those who haven’t seen it, our bookstore has a toilet on the front lawn with flowers growing out of it.)Chile Valparaiso 072

Hello, is that Wendy?

book manJack’s guest blog will be Friday this week, due to internal Welch-Beck household circumstances involving a burst pipe.

See this guy made of books? That’s the profile picture of my Facebook friend Wendy Welch. She lives in Nevada, and she’s the one who found eight Wendy Welches and hooked us all together via a secret FB group.

But then, we couldn’t figure out which one of us was typing at any point, so we gave that up and emerged on the Internet–to the consternation of friends and relations. Navigating ‘twixt so many Wendys is tricky.

In addition to Wendy, who started the whole thing, there’s Wendy the graphic artist hippie in Tennessee, and of course Wendy the eye technician, and retired Wendy, and then Wendy runs a homesteading farm in New England. Not forgetting Wendy who lives in Northern Virginia; she and I are the only ones sharing a state, that we know of.

So far, confusion has been abated by our differing locations and jobs, but poor Wendy’s mother-in-law in Nevada is having a time of it. She keeps leaving the sweetest notes on my timeline, telling me she loves me and is so glad I married her son.

This makes Jack nervous.

It’s intriguing to meet other people with your name, especially when you find out you like them. Graphics Wendy has a wicked fun sense of humor. The other day she talked about invading her son’s room for laundry pick-up he’d forgotten to gather, saying, “I’ve never seen so many ironic t-shirts in one place in my life.” Homesteading Wendy lost her husband to cancer two years ago, and moves bravely forward creating a sustainable lifestyle with her dogs and chickens–who get along with each other, so she must be doing it right. Nevada Wendy’s approach to life is playful. We’re considering ganging up on our husbands online.

As a kid, riding in a car I couldn’t steer to destinations I hadn’t chosen, I’d look out the window and play a game. Pick a house, imagine what it would be like to be a completely different person, living in there. Neat, messy, full of extended family, isolated and empty? In high school, books with “start life over” plots fascinated me: new identities, yuppies who upped stakes to become desert ranchers, that kind of thing.

Perhaps this winding circle of namesakes is the grown-up version of these, but I feel my life has been enriched by the embrace of so many strong, sweet, funny Wendy Welches within it.

A battering of Wendys…. look out world, here we come.